The Secret to Wine-Friendly Food

Posted by on Oct 28, 2011 in Musings | 3 comments

Lemon and salt are the workhorse ingredients in my wine-friendly kitchen. I know what you must be thinking. Doesn’t everyone know that acidity in food kills wine? As it turns out, that conventional truth isn’t true at all. I didn’t believe it either when I first heard about balancing tastes from Tim Hanni and later Mark deVere, Masters of Wine and colleagues of mine in the wine industry. I was already executive chef for a large winery, turning out meal after meal paired with wines. I had always abided by the “rules” of wine and food pairing, but knew that it wasn’t always working. The promised “aha” moments when wine and...

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Lemon, Anchovy and Garlic Butter

Posted by on Oct 20, 2011 in Dinner, Recipes | 3 comments

When my mother brought home the thin, little T-bone steaks from the A&P, we knew it was a special occasion. It was my father’s job to cook them. Heating the well-seasoned cast iron skillet over high heat, he seared them on both sides until they curled at the edges, a sure sign they were done. His finishing touch was a pat of butter and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. It took a liberal dousing of Worcesteshire and a big glass of milk to wash those steaks down, but I still remember them fondly. These days, I prefer a rib eye or New York, grilled or pan-seared to just medium rare and allowed to rest. I’ll finish it with a few grinds of fresh pepper, a...

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